General
At the height of our civilization, our technological development, our social and material complexity, all signs point to progress, we often think. And yet, all is not as it seems and once in a while it occurs to us to look into the past to discover our future.
Dholavira is the larger of the
two most remarkable excavations of the Indus Valley Civilization or Harappan
culture, dating back to 4500 years ago. While the other site, Lothal, is more
exhaustively educated and easier to reach, a visit to Lothal only complements,
rather than replaces, a visit to Dholavira. What this site offers you, in the
intense environment that comes with being surrounded by the Great Rann of
Kutch, is a unique insight into the pioneering Harappan mind, with one of the
world’s earliest and best planned water conservation systems and what might be
the world’s first signboards, written in ancient Indus script.
The excavation also tells the
story of the 7 stages of the civilization, from development to maturity to
decay, the last of which hints at a strange piece of history, with more
questions than answers. After the peak of the civilization Dholavira was
temporarily abandoned, after which it seems that the settlers returned with a
markedly de-urbanized culture. There are hints that they willingly chose to
simplify their lives, rather than try to ride the collapse of their once
glorified civilization. Here, on the ruins, you will have a chance to
contemplate what progress and civilization mean and what, if anything, is truly
permanent.
Background
Dholavira, known locally as
Kotada (which means large fort), sprawls over 100 hectares of semi-arid land at
the north-west corner of the island of Khadir, one of the islands in the Great
Rann of Kutch that remain above the flood-plains in months when the rest of the
desert is submerged by the monsoon. Dholavira has two seasonal nallahs, or
streams: Mansar in the north, and Manhar in the south. The journey to Dholavira
itself is beautiful, taking you through the saline desert plains of the Great
Rann, where you can spot wildlife such as chinkara gazelle, nilgai (blue bull,
the largest antelope in Asia), flamingos and other bird life.
The site was unearthed by the
Archaeological Survey of India (ASI) in 1967, but has been systematically
excavated only since 1990. Artefacts include terracotta pottery, beads, gold
and copper ornaments, seals, fish hooks, animal figurines, tools, urns, and
some imported vessels that indicate trade links with lands as far away as
Mesopotamia. Also found were 10 large stone inscriptions, carved in Indus
Valley script, perhaps the world’s earliest signboard. These are among the most
important discoveries about the Indus Valley Civilization, but remain
tantalizingly un-deciphered.
The remains show an imposing
citadel in the center, with a middle and lower town, each fortified separately,
built with pleasingly smoothed structures of sun-dried brick and stone masonry,
and with remarkable town planning. Well laid out lanes lead outward
systematically from the citadel, with a well-constructed underground drainage
system for sanitation. There is a large stadium with a complex structure and
seating arrangement.
Finally, Dholavira has one of the
world’s earliest water conservation systems ever excavated. Satellite pictures
show a reservoir underground, an expertly constructed rainwater harvesting
system extending from the walls of the city, without which the settlement would
not have thrived in the sparse rainfall of the desert.
Dholavira is one of the two
largest Harappan sites in India, and 5th largest in the subcontinent. Like
Lothal, it passed through all the stages of the Harappan culture from circa
2900 BC to 1500 BC, while most others saw only the early or late stages.
The excavation found a decline of
the civilization in the 5th of 7th stages, after which were signs of a
temporary desertion of the site. Settlers returned later in the late Harappan
stage, with a change in their pottery, influenced by cultures found at sites in
Sindh, South Rajasthan and other parts of Gujurat, but they did not bring the
return of the civilization. Their houses, for example, were built in an
entirely new form that was circular (bhungas), and the material signs were
strikingly deurbanized and simplified. Perhaps the last stage of the powerful
civilization had become aware of its future, and was preparing itself for a
gradual end.
